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How to Remove Malware from Mac and Get Rid of Adware in 2026

By Thomas Lovas Lokoy · Published September 6, 2026 — researched and drafted with AI assistance from published sources; edited and published by NorwegianSpark SA.

Almost nothing that infects a Mac is a virus in the sense people mean. The realistic Mac threat is adware, browser hijackers, fake "cleaner" utilities that manufacture problems in order to sell the fix, and configuration profiles that quietly redirect your search results. They are annoying, they are persistent, and they are removable — usually without reinstalling anything.

This is the order to work in. It starts with the steps that fix the common cases and ends with the ones you should only reach for if the earlier steps fail.

First, work out what you are actually seeing

The symptoms tell you which branch you are on.

That last one accounts for a large share of the panic in this category, and the correct response is to force-quit the browser and reopen it without restoring tabs.

Step one: disconnect, then look

If you believe something is actively running, take the machine off the network first. It costs nothing and stops any ongoing upload of what it has collected.

Then open Activity Monitor from Applications, then Utilities. Sort by CPU and look at the top of the list. You are looking for a process you do not recognise consuming resources for no reason. Do not start quitting things at random — many legitimate macOS processes have unhelpful names. Search the exact process name before acting on it.

Step two: start in safe mode

Safe mode is the single most useful tool here, because most adware persists by loading something at startup. Apple's own description, quoted from its support documentation: "Starting up your Mac in safe mode can help you identify whether issues you're experiencing are caused by software that loads as your Mac starts up."

Apple's steps differ by processor, which is where most guides get vague.

On an Apple silicon Mac: shut down from the Apple menu and wait for the shutdown to complete. Press and hold the power button until "Loading startup options" appears. Select a volume. Hold the Shift key, then click Continue in Safe Mode. The Mac restarts, and "Safe Boot" should appear in the menu bar.

On an Intel-based Mac: turn on or restart the Mac, then immediately hold Shift until the login window appears. Log in. You might be asked to log in a second time. "Safe Boot" should appear in the menu bar on either login screen.

If the symptoms vanish in safe mode, you have confirmed the problem is something loading at startup, which is exactly the class the next steps remove.

Step three: the four places adware hides

Work through all four even if the first one seems to solve it, because these things install several components.

Restart normally after all four and check whether the symptoms are gone.

Step four: scan with something reputable

If the manual pass did not clear it, or you would rather not do the manual pass at all, a scanner designed for macOS will find components in places you would not think to look. Choose a tool built for the platform rather than a Windows suite ported across — Intego is Mac-specific, and Bitdefender and Malwarebytes both maintain real Mac products. MacPaw, a Mac software developer, makes two relevant tools: it describes Moonlock as Mac antivirus that "protects from Mac-specific malware" alongside Apple's built-in security, and CleanMyMac as clearing junk, decluttering storage and removing threats, with a trial available.

Be careful about what you download to do this. A meaningful share of Mac "infections" arrive as a cleaner utility the user installed on purpose after a scary pop-up. Get the tool from the vendor's own site or the App Store, never from the advert that told you about the problem. Our comparison is best antivirus for Mac, and the prior question is answered in do Macs need antivirus.

Step five: only if the above failed

Reinstalling macOS is the last resort, not the first move, and it is worth being precise about when it is warranted: when the symptoms survive safe mode, a full manual clean and a reputable scan, or when you have reason to think something with system-level access got in.

Before that, back up your files — and be aware that restoring a backup taken after the infection can reintroduce it. Back up documents and photos, not applications and system settings. Our general guide is how to back up your data.

Afterwards: the step everyone skips

If anything malicious ran with your privileges, assume it read whatever your browser had saved. That means passwords and session cookies.

From a different, clean device, change the passwords for your email first, then banking, then everything else that shares a password with either. Changing them on the machine you have just cleaned is safer than it was, but a different device removes the doubt entirely. Then turn on two-factor authentication where it is not already on — two-factor authentication guide — and check whether anything of yours has surfaced, using how to check if your data is on the dark web.

Keeping it out next time

Apple's own guidance is source-based rather than scanner-based, and it is quoted here from Apple's Mac User Guide. On the Privacy and Security setting that governs where apps may come from, Apple describes the App Store option as "the most secure setting to protect your system from malware", on the basis that "all the developers of apps in the Mac App Store are known by Apple and each app is reviewed before it's accepted". The looser App Store and Known Developers option allows apps from registered developers who "can optionally upload their apps to Apple for a security check". Apple also warns that "scripts, web archives and Java archives have the potential to harm your system", and to "exercise caution when opening any such downloaded file".

Practically, that translates into a short list:

The honest counter-argument

Macs are not immune, and the "Macs do not get viruses" line has been wrong for years. But the threat profile genuinely is different, and pretending otherwise sells software rather than helping.

The realistic Mac risk is adware and social engineering, not silent system compromise. Gatekeeper, notarisation and the platform's background malware definitions handle a meaningful share of what would otherwise land. Which means the most valuable thing you can do for a Mac is not necessarily to buy a scanner: it is to keep updates on, install from known sources, and be sceptical of anything that arrives with urgency attached.

A scanner earns its place if you share the machine, if you download widely, or if you would rather have something checking than rely on your own judgement every time. Those are good reasons. "Macs are riddled with viruses" is not one, and neither is the pop-up that said so.

The general habits are in Mac security essentials, and the Windows version of this guide is how to remove malware step by step.

Work in order: identify, disconnect, safe mode, the four hiding places, then scan. Reinstall last, and change your passwords from a clean device afterwards. The scanners worth keeping installed afterwards are compared in our security tool shortlist. This is general guidance, not security advice for a specific threat model.

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Sources

Factual claims above were checked against these primary sources. Verify directly on the source for anything time-sensitive before relying on it.

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